The word ‘Ceylon’ is normally associated with quality black tea made by
the orthodox or traditional method. Green Ceylon tea is less well
known. All the same, Sri Lanka exported slightly more than 3,000 tonnes
of the latter in 2010. While this was only about a hundredth of the
quantity of black tea exported the same year, the reputation for
quality enjoyed by Ceylon Tea has quickly come to be shared by the
green product as well as the black. The Ceylon green tea industry,
though young, is growing rapidly as its products attract a following
among the tea-drinking nations of the world. Currently, the main export
markets for green Ceylon Tea are the Middle East and the countries of
the former Soviet Union, though sales are also growing in Europe,
North America and East Asia. In Sri Lanka, too, a taste for green tea
is rapidly spreading.
Although it is a relatively new arrival among the export statistics, the
history of green tea in Sri Lanka stretches back to the very first
experiments in tea cultivation and manufacture made on the island.
Though sometimes attributed to Sir Anthony Oliphant, a former Chief
Justice of Ceylon, the credit for undertaking these experiments is
generally agreed to go to Maurice Worms, a member of the great
Rothschild financial dynasty, who planted some China seedlings on his
estates in Pussallewa and Ramboda in 1842. This was in the middle of the
Ceylon coffee boom, so it is clear that Worms was merely trying out a
new hobby.
His tea, cultivated and manufactured according to the Chinese
method using tea-makers who had been brought over to Ceylon from that
country expressly for the purpose, cost over £5 sterling per pound to
produce. This being far more than even a Rothschild might be willing to
pay for a pound of tea, the experiment was soon abandoned. However, many
of the bushes on older Sri Lankan estates, particularly those at high
elevations, were grown from China seedlings. As a general rule, Chinese
‘cultivars’ or strains yield a smaller leaf and a subtler flavour than
the Assamese ones more common on tea estates in Sri Lanka.
Today, green Ceylon Tea is produced by eleven manufacturers on a number
of estates in the mid-grown and high-grown districts. Among the
varieties produced on these estates are Young Hyson (including Chun
Mee), Sou Mei or ‘longevity tea’, rolled ‘gunpowder’ tea, green tea
fannings and Sencha fannings. As can be seen from this list, both
Chinese and Japanese tea-making methods are employed in making green
Ceylon Tea.
As the pleasures of drinking tea and the healthful
properties of the beverage (which offers no less than 25 established
health benefits) are discovered by more and more people around the
world, green Ceylon Tea looks set to continue growing in success and
popularity.
Friday, November 8, 2013
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